Travelling from coast to coast across the continent means you can claim that most quintessential Australian experience, “I crossed the Nullabor!” There are even T-shirts and stickers. When I did my trip to Perth on the Indian-Pacific, we got an announcement some time after breakfast on Monday morning saying, We are now entering the Nullabor Plain, and will be on it for approximately the next seven hours. (Check it out on http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nullarbor_Plain)
This is a snap of the Nullabor out of my train window:
No trees, some scrubby mulga, a couple of camels in the distance.
Mid-morning, however, we stopped at Cook, while they did something with the train. Cook is a fascinating place – it used to have a hospital, school and golf course, now has a population of four – yes, four! – with a little shop that only opens when the Indian-Pacific stops. Cook closed about 10 years ago when the railway was privatised and they no longer needed a support town.There are still a lot of houses and buildings but you are warned not to go inside any, for safety reasons.
But it doesn’t look like a ghost town. And have a look at how many trees there are in Cook, bang in the middle of the Nullabor, surrounded by arid desert for hundreds of miles:
The reason is that in 1982, The Year Of The Tree, there was a project where 600 trees were provided to Cook by people from Perth and Adelaide. There is a plaque explaining:
This resonated greatly with me, because I suddenly remembered that 1982 was the year that Don went in as President of the Rotary Club in Glen Innes, and typically for Don, he wanted to do something really different to mark his presidency. Because it was The Year Of The Tree, he got the nursery to provide a tree for every person at the inaugural dinner, and they were placed on the table at each place setting. You know how they come in cylinders. And so he and the Rotary Club carried out the Greening of Glen Innes that year. It generated a lot of enthusiasm not just throughout Rotary, but throughout the town.
Anyway, here is the view out of my window a little later:

Hands up everyone who thinks the name “Nullabor” is aboriginal? Sorry, but it’s from Latin, “nullus” no and “arbor” tree. (And incidentally, Cook is not named after Captain James Cook the famous explorer who discovered Australia in the first place, but after the Prime Minister of the day in 1917, Joseph Cook.)
And just to emphasise the sameness of that whole day, this is the view late in the afternoon of that Monday before we got to Kalgoorlie:





